Hardwood Floor — Part 4: How to Stair and Handrail

This is part 4 of our Hardwood Floor series. If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links: hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare hardwood floor part2: how to install hardwood floor part3: how totrim

We are going to show you how to replace your steel spiral handrails with solid hardwood handrails. Replace carpet with solid hardwood stairs.

don’t remove your old stair and rails. You need to use the old handrails to shape the new handrail.
Make handrail: apply glue to laminations- sandwich together, wipe excess glue, and tape around about every two feet to hold together. Clamp the new 7-layer laminated one to your old rail. You need to do it quick because you will only have a few minutes before it dries.

Use as many clamps as you could find to hold the rail against the old railing. If you don’t have enough clamps, I have found that making square horseshoe shaped pieces make for a great bending rail bracket.

remove the new handrails (which were attached to the old handrail in the above step). And then remove the old handrails, remove the old carpets etc.
Make Stairs: there are two kinds of planks. One I used for the regular floor, this is just a regular plank. The second kind is closer to the edge with a “nose”. Cut risers and treads to stringer frames and to each other with trim screws and finish nails. Simply cover the old wood surface with the new hardwood surface.
When the stair unit is completely finished. Attach the handrail with balusters. You need to have a few people to help you to hold the handrails, balusters etc.

If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links: hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare hardwood floor part2: how to install hardwood floor part3: how totrim

For the full video tutorial, visit Genius Asian.

Alternative Methods

The laminated-bend handrail technique shown in the video is an advanced woodworking approach. Here are alternatives for stair and handrail projects.

1. Pre-Made Stair Tread Caps (Retrofit Overlays)

When to use: Covering existing stairs without removing them, when stairs are structurally sound.

Pros: No demolition needed, adhesive and nail installation, available in many wood species, includes matching nosing
Cons: Adds thickness to each tread (may affect riser height), existing treads must be level and solid, trim adjustments may be needed
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated cost: ~$25-60 per tread

2. Iron or Wrought Iron Balusters with Wood Handrail

When to use: When you want a modern or transitional look without building a laminated handrail from scratch.

Pros: Striking visual contrast, iron balusters are stronger than wood, pre-made wood handrails are widely available in standard profiles
Cons: Iron balusters must be cut to length and secured with epoxy or set screws, code requires specific baluster spacing (max 4 inches between balusters)
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated cost: ~$5-15 per baluster, ~$8-20 per linear foot for a pre-milled wood handrail

3. Cable Railing System

When to use: Open, contemporary stairways where you want maximum visibility through the railing.

Pros: Sleek modern appearance, very durable stainless steel cables, low maintenance
Cons: Expensive hardware, requires precise tensioning, some building codes restrict cable railing in certain applications
Difficulty: Medium to Hard
Estimated cost: ~$50-100 per linear foot (materials)

4. Hire a Stair Specialist or Finish Carpenter

When to use: Curved or spiral staircases, code-compliance concerns, or when you want a showpiece result.

Pros: Precise fitting, code-compliant baluster spacing and handrail height, handles complex geometries, warranty on workmanship
Cons: Significant labor cost, scheduling, may need to match existing wood species exactly
Difficulty: N/A (hired service)
Estimated cost: ~$1,500-5,000+ depending on stair complexity and materials

Tips for Hardwood Stair and Handrail Installation

Measure riser heights carefully before ordering treads. Building code requires consistent riser heights (the vertical distance between each step). A difference of more than 3/8 inch between any two risers is a code violation and a serious trip hazard. If your existing stairs vary, you need to shim or plane treads to compensate before capping.
Use the old railing as a template. As shown in the video, clamping the new laminated handrail to the old one is the most reliable way to match the curve exactly. Do a dry fit with no glue first to confirm you have enough clamps and that the wood bends without cracking.
Choose the right glue for laminated bends. Titebond III or a slow-set epoxy gives you more working time than standard yellow glue. For a 7-layer lamination around a tight curve, you may need 10-15 minutes of open time. Pre-stage all clamps and have a helper ready.
Sand between coats of finish. Whether you use polyurethane, lacquer, or oil, light sanding with 220-grit paper between coats removes dust nibs and improves adhesion. Three coats with sanding between each will produce a surface that lasts for decades.
Pre-drill baluster holes. Hardwood splits easily when you drive fasteners without pilot holes. Drill baluster holes on the underside of the handrail and into the tread at the correct spacing before assembly. A drill press jig ensures consistent angle and depth.
Check local building code for handrail requirements. Most codes require a graspable handrail between 34 and 38 inches high (measured from the stair nosing), with a continuous rail from top to bottom. Balusters must be spaced no more than 4 inches apart so a 4-inch sphere cannot pass through. Verify these dimensions before final installation.

Tools You Will Need

Tool	Purpose	Approximate Cost
Miter saw (10-inch or 12-inch)	Cut treads, risers, and handrail sections to length	$150-300 (or $40-60/day rental)
Table saw	Rip treads and risers to width, cut nosing profiles	$200-400 (or $40-60/day rental)
Bar clamps (at least 6-8)	Laminate and bend the handrail around the form	$10-20 each
Wood glue (Titebond III or slow-set epoxy)	Bond lamination layers and secure treads	$8-15
Finish nailer (15 or 16 gauge)	Attach treads, risers, and trim without splitting	$80-150 (or $25-40/day rental)
Random orbital sander	Smooth treads, risers, and handrail before finishing	$40-70
Drill/driver with bits	Pre-drill baluster holes and drive trim screws	$40-80
Level (4-foot)	Verify tread level and handrail height	$10-20
Tape measure and combination square	Precise measurements for consistent riser height and tread depth	$10-20
Safety glasses and dust mask	Protect eyes and lungs from sawdust	$5-10

This is one of the more tool-intensive DIY flooring projects. If you do not own a miter saw and table saw, renting both for a weekend typically costs $80-120 and is far more economical than buying.

When to Call a Pro

Stair and handrail work is among the most demanding DIY flooring tasks. Professional help is warranted in these cases:

The staircase is curved or spiral. Laminating a curved handrail, as shown in the video, requires advanced woodworking skill and many clamps. A spiral staircase adds three-dimensional complexity that most DIYers find extremely challenging. A finish carpenter or stair specialist can execute this precisely.
Structural issues exist. If the stringer (the sawtooth-shaped board that supports the treads) is cracked, rotted, or undersized, the fix is structural rather than cosmetic. A contractor can sister a new stringer alongside the old one or replace it entirely.
Building code compliance is uncertain. Handrail height, baluster spacing, tread depth, and riser height are all code-regulated. If your stairs do not meet current code and you are doing permitted work, an inspector will require corrections. A professional ensures the installation passes inspection the first time.
The project involves multiple flights. A single straight flight is manageable, but a multi-story staircase with landings, turns, and continuous handrails increases complexity exponentially. Transition fittings at turns (volutes, turnouts, goosenecks) require precise shaping.
You want a high-end finish. Custom staining to match existing floors, grain-matched treads, and hand-rubbed oil finishes require patience and skill. A flooring specialist can deliver a seamless look across the entire floor-to-stair transition. For earlier steps in this series, see hardwood floor preparation, installation, and trim work.

Always verify contractor licensing and insurance in your state. Cost estimates are averages and may vary by location.