Hardwood Floor —part 2: How to Install

Name: Hardwood Floor --part 2: How to Install
Creator: HandymanFix

Welcome to http://HandymanFix.com This is part 2 of our Hardwood Floor series. If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links: hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare hardwood floor part3: how totrim hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail

This part 2 is: 5. Prepare subfloor 5.1. if the plywood underneath your floor is in good condition you can leave it, otherwise remove the upper layers of the floor until you reach the floor’s foundation. It is especially important to remove particle board if you floor lies upon it. . 5.2. install plywood preferred: ¾”, min thick 5/8”. 5.3. make it flat 6. Nail 6.1. plan the interleave 6.2. inspect the width of the planks. 6.3. regular nailer is used to face nail when the floor nailer is too big. 6.4. fastening each board with at least two fasteners 6.5. 8-10” apart and 1-1 1/2” from the ends (to avoid splitting). 6.6. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening. 6.7. The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following 6.8. spline. Cut the paint stick and glue the two grooves together if you have to join two grooves. 6.9. High traffic area can apply glue to minimize squeaky floor boards later

Prepare subfloor 5.1. if the plywood underneath your floor is in good condition you can leave it, otherwise remove the upper layers of the floor until you reach the floor’s foundation. It is especially important to remove particle board if you floor lies upon it. . 5.2. install plywood preferred: ¾”, min thick 5/8”. 5.3. make it flat
Nail 6.1. plan the interleave 6.2. inspect the width of the planks. 6.3. regular nailer is used to face nail when the floor nailer is too big. 6.4. fastening each board with at least two fasteners 6.5. 8-10” apart and 1-1 1/2” from the ends (to avoid splitting). 6.6. Tighten boards as necessary to reduce gaps before fastening. 6.7. The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following 6.8. spline. Cut the paint stick and glue the two grooves together if you have to join two grooves. If you want to join two planks with both grooves, you may cut a paint stick (the stick to stir the paint). The paint stick is just the right thickness. 6.9. High traffic area can apply glue to minimize squeaky floor boards later

If you want to see other videos of the series, visit the following links: hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare hardwood floor part3: how totrim hardwood floor part 4: how to stair and handrail

For the full video tutorial, visit Genius Asian.

Alternative Methods

Nail-down installation is the traditional method for solid hardwood, but other approaches suit different situations.

1. Floating Hardwood Installation

When to use: Engineered hardwood over concrete slabs, radiant heat, or when you want removable flooring.

Pros: No nails or glue required, click-lock system, can be installed over concrete, easier to remove
Cons: Only works with engineered hardwood (not solid), may feel slightly hollow underfoot, requires quality underlayment
Difficulty: Easy to Medium
Estimated cost: ~$4-10 per sq ft for engineered hardwood

2. Glue-Down Hardwood Installation

When to use: Over concrete slabs or when maximum stability and minimal floor height are needed.

Pros: Very stable, reduces hollow sound, works on concrete, excellent for wide-plank floors
Cons: Messy adhesive application, permanent installation, difficult to remove or repair, requires flat subfloor
Difficulty: Medium to Hard
Estimated cost: ~$3-8 per sq ft plus $40-80 for adhesive

3. Staple-Down Installation

When to use: When you have a pneumatic stapler and want faster installation than traditional nailing.

Pros: Faster than manual nailing, strong hold, works with standard tongue-and-groove hardwood
Cons: Requires pneumatic flooring stapler (rental ~$40-60/day), staples can split thinner planks, same subfloor requirements as nail-down
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated cost: Same as nail-down plus $40-60/day tool rental

Tips for Hardwood Floor Installation

Solid hardwood flooring is a permanent investment. These tips address the details that separate a professional-looking result from one with gaps, squeaks, and alignment problems.

Acclimate the wood for 5-7 days. Solid hardwood is more sensitive to moisture than laminate or engineered wood. Open the boxes and stack the planks loosely in the room where they will be installed. Run the HVAC system at normal living conditions. The goal is getting the wood’s moisture content within 2% of the subfloor’s reading. A pin-type moisture meter costs under $30 and pays for itself in avoided problems.
Check subfloor flatness with a long straightedge. Lay a 6-foot or 8-foot straightedge across the subfloor in multiple directions. The subfloor should not have humps or valleys greater than 3/16 inch over that span. High spots can be sanded down. Low spots can be filled with floor-leveling compound. Installing hardwood over an uneven subfloor causes squeaks, cracking, and visible gaps.
Snap a chalk line for your first row. Walls are rarely perfectly straight. Measure 3/4 inch out from the starting wall (for the expansion gap), snap a chalk line, and align your first row to the chalk line — not to the wall. The first row sets the alignment for the entire floor.
Rack the floor before nailing. Before you start fastening, lay out several rows of planks dry-fit across the room. This lets you see the color variation, plan stagger patterns, and avoid placing two very similar or very different boards next to each other. Racking takes 30 minutes and transforms the final appearance.
Use a spline when you need to reverse direction. Sometimes the layout requires you to nail from two directions toward the center. A spline is a thin wooden strip that fits into two grooves, allowing you to reverse the tongue direction. A paint stir stick cut to the right thickness works as a field-expedient spline.
Fastener spacing matters. Nail or staple every 8-10 inches along the length of each plank, and always within 1 to 1-1/2 inches from each end. Fastening close to the ends prevents the plank from cupping or the ends from lifting. Pre-drill face-nail holes near the ends to avoid splitting.
Leave expansion gaps on all perimeters. Solid hardwood expands and contracts more than engineered wood. Maintain a 3/4-inch gap along all walls, under door casings, and around any fixed objects. Baseboards and shoe molding cover the gap. Never push planks tight against the wall.
Apply glue in high-traffic zones. Put a thin bead of wood glue in the tongue-and-groove joint in hallways, doorways, and other high-traffic areas. The glue prevents the slight movement between planks that causes squeaks years later.

Tools and Materials

Tool / Material	Purpose	Notes
Pneumatic flooring nailer or stapler	Primary fastening tool	Rental cost ~$40-60/day; manual models available
Compressor and hose	Power the flooring nailer	2-gallon pancake compressor is sufficient
Rubber mallet	Seat the nailer and tighten plank joints	Standard size; do not use a metal hammer on the nailer
Miter saw or table saw	Crosscut and rip-cut planks	A circular saw with a fine-tooth blade also works
Jigsaw	Cut around irregular shapes (pipes, vents)	Use a fine-tooth blade to minimize splintering
Chalk line	Mark straight first-row alignment	Red or blue chalk; avoid permanent chalk near finished surfaces
Moisture meter (pin type)	Verify wood and subfloor moisture content	Keep wood within 2% of subfloor reading
Tape measure and pencil	Measure and mark cuts	Measure twice, cut once
Pry bar and putty knife	Remove existing baseboards	Protect the wall behind the pry bar
Wood glue	Reinforce joints in high-traffic areas and spline joints	Also used for face-nail hole plugs
15 lb felt paper or moisture barrier	Subfloor protection layer	Roll out perpendicular to plank direction, overlap seams 4 inches

When to Call a Professional

Hardwood floor installation is more demanding than laminate, and certain situations favor professional installers.

Subfloor problems beyond simple leveling. Rotted plywood, termite damage, or particle board subfloor (which must be removed entirely) require structural repairs before flooring can be installed. A professional can assess and fix the subfloor structure.
Wide-plank flooring (5 inches or wider). Wide planks amplify every imperfection in the subfloor and are more prone to cupping. Professional installers have the tools and experience to manage wide-plank expansion and contraction.
Staircase and curved transitions. Installing hardwood on stairs requires precise nosing, riser, and stringer work. Our hardwood floor stair and handrail guide covers the basics, but complex spiral or curved staircases benefit from professional skill.
Moisture problems in the building. If your moisture meter readings are inconsistent or excessively high (above 12% in the wood or 14% in the subfloor), there may be a building envelope problem. A professional can diagnose and resolve the moisture source before flooring begins.

For subfloor preparation before installation, see hardwood floor part 1: how to prepare. For finishing work after the planks are down, see hardwood floor part 3: how to trim. If you are considering laminate as an alternative, our glueless laminate installation guide covers the click-lock approach. For tips on avoiding squeaks long-term, check our squeaky floor repair guide. More flooring tutorials are available on Genius Asian.

Always verify contractor licensing and insurance in your state. Cost estimates are averages and may vary by location.