Fix: Kenmore Electrical Dryer Motor OK but No Heat

Kenmore Electrical Dryer motor OK but No heat. This model can not be opened from the back. Heating coil is broken.

Short term fix: Connecting the heating coil. However it could be dangerous. Shorter wires means less resistance, thus larger current. Twisting it without pressure leaves gaps, which in turn may produce spark. Currently the fix is using a very small bolt and nut to connect the broken coil. The bolt/nut needs to press the wire hard enough to reduce gap. But you can not choose the bolt/nut be too big to cause short to the ground. It has been running a few months now. The ultimate fix is to replace the coil.

For the full video tutorial, visit Genius Asian.

Alternative Methods

Reconnecting a broken heating coil is a temporary fix. Here are more permanent solutions.

1. Replace the Heating Element Assembly

When to use: When the heating coil is broken or worn out.

Pros: Genuine fix that restores full heat, no risk of higher current draw, replacement elements are widely available
Cons: Must match exact part number for your dryer model, requires removing the drum or back panel
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated cost: ~$20-50 for the element

2. Replace the Thermal Fuse or Thermostat

When to use: If the dryer has heat sometimes but shuts off early, or if the element tests fine but no heat reaches the drum.

Pros: Inexpensive parts, easy to test with a multimeter, common failure point
Cons: Must diagnose correctly first (a blown thermal fuse often indicates a clogged vent)
Difficulty: Easy
Estimated cost: ~$5-15 per fuse/thermostat

3. Check and Replace the Timer or Control Board

When to use: When the heating element and thermal components test fine, but the dryer still does not heat.

Pros: Addresses an often-overlooked electrical root cause, the timer or control board sends the signal to energize the element
Cons: Timer replacement is moderately complex, control boards are model-specific and more expensive
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated cost: ~$30-80 for a timer, ~$80-200 for a control board

4. Clean the Dryer Vent Line

When to use: Before replacing any parts. A clogged vent is the single most common reason for a dryer losing heat.

Pros: Restores airflow and efficiency, reduces fire risk, takes 30-60 minutes, no parts needed
Cons: Requires a vent brush kit or shop vacuum, long vent runs may need professional cleaning
Difficulty: Easy
Estimated cost: ~$10-20 for a vent brush kit

5. Hire an Appliance Repair Technician

When to use: When you are uncomfortable working near high-voltage components or cannot diagnose the root cause.

Pros: Professional diagnosis, warranty on repair, safe handling of electrical components
Cons: Service call fee plus parts, scheduling wait
Difficulty: N/A (hired service)
Estimated cost: ~$100-200 for diagnosis and repair

Tips for Diagnosing and Fixing Dryer Heat Issues

Always unplug the dryer before opening the cabinet. Electric dryers run on 240 volts, which is lethal. Pulling the plug from the wall outlet is the only safe way to ensure the circuit is dead. Turning off the breaker is a secondary safeguard, not a primary one.
Check the 240V outlet first. A dryer outlet uses two 120V legs to deliver 240V. If one leg trips at the breaker panel, the motor will run on the remaining 120V but the heating element will not activate. Check both breakers in the pair and reset them if needed. For basic electrical safety principles, see our electrical safety guide.
Use a multimeter to test components in order. Start with the heating element (test for continuity end-to-end), then the thermal fuse (should read near zero ohms), then the high-limit thermostat and cycling thermostat. A component that shows infinite resistance (open circuit) is your culprit.
Inspect the heating element for breaks visually. Remove the element assembly and stretch the coils slightly. A broken coil will have a visible gap, sometimes less than a millimeter wide. The bolt-and-nut reconnection shown in the video works as a stopgap, but the repaired spot will have higher resistance and may overheat locally.
Clean the lint trap and vent before every repair. A clogged vent causes the dryer to overheat, which triggers the thermal fuse. If you replace the fuse without clearing the vent, the new fuse will blow again within days. For a thorough vent cleaning guide, see our article on dryer vent cleaning.
Record the model and serial number. You will find them on a plate inside the door frame or on the back panel. Having these numbers ready when ordering parts ensures you get the exact replacement. Kenmore dryers are manufactured by multiple companies (Whirlpool, LG, Electrolux), so the part varies by model.
Reassemble in reverse order and run a test cycle. After the repair, run the dryer on a timed heat cycle (not auto-dry) for 10 minutes with a damp towel inside. Confirm that hot air is blowing into the drum and that the exhaust vent outside the house is pushing warm air. If the vent output is weak, the vent line still has a restriction.

Tools You Will Need

Tool	Purpose	Approximate Cost
Digital multimeter	Test continuity of heating element, fuses, and thermostats	$15-30
1/4-inch nut driver or socket set	Remove cabinet and internal screws	$8-15
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers	Various fasteners inside the dryer	$5-10
Work gloves	Protect hands from sharp sheet metal edges	$5-10
Flashlight or headlamp	Illuminate the interior of the dryer cabinet	$5-15
Dryer vent brush kit (4-inch flexible rod)	Clean lint buildup from the vent line	$10-20
Needle-nose pliers	Disconnect wire connectors on thermostats and fuses	$5-10
Smartphone or camera	Photograph wire positions before disconnecting (critical for reassembly)	$0

Total tool cost for a first-time repair is around $50-80. A multimeter is the most important investment and will be useful for countless future electrical diagnostics.

When to Call a Pro

Dryer repair is one of the more accessible appliance fixes, but some situations warrant a professional:

You smell burning or see scorch marks. Burn marks around the heating element housing, on wiring insulation, or inside the vent indicate a fire hazard. Do not run the dryer again until a technician has inspected the full assembly and cleared it as safe.
The dryer trips the breaker repeatedly. A breaker that will not stay on points to a short circuit, which could be in the element, the wiring, or the outlet itself. An electrician or appliance tech should trace the short before you continue troubleshooting.
You are not confident with 240V wiring. There is no shame in calling a pro for high-voltage work. A 240V shock can cause cardiac arrest. If you have not worked with electrical panels and wiring before, start with lower-voltage projects to build confidence. See our guide on how to replace a light switch for an entry-level electrical project.
The dryer is under warranty. Opening the cabinet and attempting repairs yourself may void the manufacturer’s warranty. Check your warranty terms before proceeding, and use authorized service if coverage is still active.
Parts are no longer available. Very old dryers may have discontinued heating elements. If you cannot find a direct replacement, a technician may be able to source a compatible aftermarket part or advise whether replacing the entire dryer is more economical. For general guidance on repair-versus-replace decisions, see our article on replacing an old dryer with a new one.

Always verify contractor licensing and insurance in your state. Cost estimates are averages and may vary by location.