Kitchen Remodel Part 1

How do you remodel a kitchen? First we divide the tasks into ceiling, wall cabinet, counter cabinet, counter top and floor. The first question is which order you should complete your tasks? part 1 focus on the wall cabinet. If you have a carjack, you may take your time, the wall cabinet is pretty easy job.

For the full video tutorial, visit Genius Asian.

Planning Your Kitchen Remodel: The Right Order of Operations

A kitchen remodel can spiral out of control fast if you do things in the wrong order. Ripping out cabinets before planning the layout, or installing flooring before the heavy appliances arrive, leads to expensive rework. The key to a smooth remodel is sequencing every task so that later work does not damage earlier work.

The Correct Remodel Sequence

Here is the order that professional contractors follow and the one you should use for a DIY kitchen remodel:

Demolition and removal — Take out old cabinets, countertops, flooring, and appliances. Protect anything you plan to keep (like hardwood in adjacent rooms) with rosin paper and tape.
Rough-in plumbing and electrical — Move or add water lines, drain pipes, gas lines, and electrical circuits before the walls are closed up. This is the time to add outlets for under-cabinet lighting, a dishwasher circuit, or a dedicated 20-amp outlet for the microwave.
Drywall and ceiling — Patch or replace drywall, tape, and mud. Do the ceiling first if you are changing it.
Wall cabinets — Hang the uppers before the lowers. This gives you open floor space to work, set up a ladder, and use a carjack or cabinet jack to hold the uppers in position while you drive screws into studs.
Base cabinets — Install the lowers, shimming them level. Secure them to wall studs and to each other.
Countertops — Templated and installed after base cabinets are in their final position.
Flooring — Some contractors prefer flooring before cabinets so the floor runs continuously underneath. Both approaches work, but installing after cabinets means you buy less flooring material and avoid scuffing it during cabinet installation.
Backsplash, trim, and paint — The finish work that ties everything together.
Appliances and fixtures — Hook up the sink, faucet, dishwasher, range, and refrigerator last so they do not get scratched or dusty.

Wall Cabinet Installation: The One-Person Method

Wall cabinets are the focus of Part 1 because they are the most awkward to install alone. A standard 30-inch-tall upper cabinet weighs 40 to 70 pounds, and you need to hold it 54 inches off the floor (the standard mounting height) while driving screws.

The carjack method: Position a hydraulic bottle jack (a standard car jack works fine) on top of a base cabinet or a sturdy sawhorse. Set the wall cabinet on top, pump the jack to the exact height, and then screw through the cabinet’s back rail into the wall studs. This frees both hands for alignment and drilling.

Stud location: Use a stud finder like the Franklin ProSensor 710 to mark every stud along the wall before you lift a single cabinet. Wall cabinets must be anchored into studs — drywall anchors will not hold the weight of dishes and glasses.

Tip: Start with a corner cabinet or the cabinet directly beside the range hood. Work outward from there, clamping adjacent cabinets face-to-face and drilling through the stile to join them before mounting.

For a breakdown of what a full kitchen remodel typically costs, see our kitchen remodel cost guide.

Alternative Methods

1. Refinish Instead of Replace Cabinets

When to use: Your existing cabinet boxes are solid but the doors look dated.

Pros: Saves 40-60% versus new cabinets, less demolition mess, faster timeline (3-5 days)
Cons: Does not change the layout, veneer can peel if not prepped properly, limited color options with stain
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated cost: ~$1,500-4,000 for a typical kitchen

2. RTA (Ready-to-Assemble) Cabinets

When to use: Budget-conscious full replacement where you want new cabinets at half the price of custom.

Pros: Significant cost savings, many style options, cam-lock assembly is straightforward
Cons: Thinner materials than custom, assembly time adds up, quality varies widely by brand
Difficulty: Medium
Estimated cost: ~$2,000-6,000 for uppers and lowers

3. Professional Cabinet Installation Only

When to use: You want to handle demo and prep yourself but leave precise cabinet hanging to a pro.

Pros: Ensures level, plumb installation, faster than DIY, installer handles tricky cuts and fillers
Cons: Labor cost, still need to coordinate with other trades, scheduling delays
Difficulty: N/A (hired out)
Estimated cost: ~$1,500-3,000 for labor on a standard kitchen

Tips and Tools

Essential tools for wall cabinet installation: Stud finder (Franklin ProSensor 710), 4-foot level, drill/driver with #2 Phillips bit, 2.5-inch cabinet screws (GRK R4 are excellent), C-clamps for joining cabinets, measuring tape, and a hydraulic bottle jack or cabinet jack.
Tip: Draw a level reference line on the wall at 54 inches from the finished floor height. Every cabinet bottom sits on this line. If your floor is not level, measure from the highest point.
Tip: Remove all cabinet doors and shelves before installation. They add weight and get in the way. Label each door with painter’s tape so you can remount them on the correct cabinet later.
Tip: Pre-drill through the back mounting rail of each cabinet to prevent splitting. Hardwood frames can crack if you drive screws without pilot holes.
Tip: If your walls are plaster instead of drywall, use toggle bolts between studs for extra support, and expect more dust during drilling.

For tips on installing a tile backsplash after your cabinets are in, see our tile backsplash installation guide.

When to Call a Pro

Kitchen remodeling has several stages where a mistake can cost thousands to fix. Bring in a licensed professional when:

Plumbing or gas lines need to be moved. Relocating a sink drain or gas line for a range requires permits in most jurisdictions. A botched gas connection is a serious safety hazard, and a leaking drain inside a wall leads to mold.
Electrical load calculations are needed. Kitchens require multiple dedicated circuits — at least two 20-amp small-appliance circuits, a dedicated dishwasher circuit, and often a 40-50 amp range circuit. If your panel is full or your wiring is outdated (knob-and-tube or aluminum), an electrician needs to assess the situation. Read more in our electrical safety guide.
Structural walls are involved. If your dream open-concept kitchen requires removing a load-bearing wall, you need a structural engineer and a licensed contractor. A misidentified load-bearing wall can cause ceiling sag or worse.
Countertop templating for stone. Granite and quartz countertops are templated with lasers and cut at a fabrication shop. These are heavy, fragile, and expensive — not a DIY install for most homeowners.

A kitchen remodel is one of the highest-ROI home improvements you can make, but only if the work is done right. If you are unsure where your skills end and the pros should begin, our DIY vs hiring a pro guide breaks it down by task.

Always verify contractor licensing and insurance in your state. Cost estimates are averages and may vary by location.