How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe -English Version

This is the English version of “How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe”, by Dr. Zhang and Mr. Zhang

We also have the same topic of Chinese version here

English Version Part 1:

English Version Part 2:

-        What the video is about

In this English-language tutorial, Dr. Zhang and Mr. Zhang walk through the complete process of replacing galvanized steel water supply pipes with copper. The video covers tool selection, cutting techniques, soldering fundamentals, and reconnection strategies for both single-room and whole-house projects.

2.            Benefits/Drawbacks

What are the benefits of replacing?  First, you need to know that there are three choices: steel, copper or PVC piping.

2.1.      Galvanized steel

Galvanized steel pipes corrode from the inside out, accumulating mineral deposits and harboring bacteria in the rough interior surface. The telltale sign of a failing galvanized pipe is a wrap of repair tape or a compression clamp around a joint — a temporary patch that signals the pipe is near the end of its service life. If you see these patches when inspecting a home before purchase, budget for a re-pipe.

2.2.      PVC

PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) never rusts. Not this ABS type. 66% US market water supply and 75% sewer.  Easy to install, use this hacksaw, solvent etc. California has restrictions. It has health risks. I have already got rid of all my food plastic containers. I am concerned the plastics might leach chemicals. I would use it only for drain and waste.

2.3.      Copper

Copper. Copper is durable, bacteria-resistant, costs less and is more easily installed than steel. It requires fewer fasteners than galvanized pipes. However copper rust is poisonous. The good thing is, the poison kills the bacteria, I don’t know about people.   So many people have replaced galvanized steel with copper in recent years, I guess we’ll be finding out soon!

3.   If you choose copper, this is what you need

3.1.      Pipe

Cap or tape the open ends of cut copper pipes immediately. Crawl spaces are dusty environments, and debris inside the pipe will travel to faucet aerators and clog the screens once water pressure is restored. A few seconds of taping saves a frustrating cleanup later.

3.2.      flexible tubes

3.3.      Couplings

Stock up on couplings in several sizes before starting. Straight couplings, reducing couplings, elbows, and tees all come in multiple diameters. Buying extras from the hardware store and returning unused fittings afterward is far more efficient than making multiple trips mid-project when your water is shut off.

3.4.      Cutting tool

3.5.      Lead free Solder

3.6.      Lead free flux

3.7.      Straps, screws

3.8.      torch

3.9.      pipe wrench

4.            Safety first

Safety first. Keep goggles within arm’s reach at every work station — galvanized pipe cutting throws metal shavings that can cause serious eye injuries. Copper soldering generates bright flux flare, so standard safety glasses are the minimum for this project.

5.            Cut galvanized Pipe

5.1.      strategic

Cut strategic places, minimize number of cuts.

5.2.      Plugs and Caps

Use plugs and caps to temporarily block the water supply to different parts of the house rather than completely cutting the water supply.   This is to reduce the stress on your family.

See diagram.

6.            Cut Copper

6.1.      Mark it

6.2.      Double check

7.            Solder

7.1.      Safety

7.2.      Practice first

7.3.      sand it

7.4.      Flux

7.5.      Heat

7.6.      Apply lead

7.7.      How to re-do it

8.            Re-connect

8.1.      Single bathroom

For a single-bathroom or single-kitchen re-pipe, you can complete the disconnection, copper installation, and reconnection in a single work session without leaving the household without water overnight.

8.1.1.      Dielectric coupling

If you are doing a long term galvanized-copper connection, then use dielectric coupling.

8.2.      Bypass

If you want to replace the complete house, you need to first make sure you completely understand the way the plumbing is laid out and which parts of the house will have to be without water at the same time.  If two bathrooms are connected, as in this diagram here, it is best to keep both shut down until you are completely finished with both.  This is because with water trapped inside the copper pipe, it takes long time to heat the copper pipe and is difficult to solder securely.  Still, you need to have one to use, so if you do not have an additional bathroom, this may be a difficulty you will face.

8.3.      Last Connection

You need to drain the water before any soldering.

8.3.1.      Joint need to be Higher without water trapped inside

8.3.2.      vertical

Choose a vertical pipe instead of horizontal pipe at the new joint.

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For the full video tutorial, visit Genius Asian.

Alternative Methods

If soldering copper pipe is not your preferred approach, consider these alternatives.

1. SharkBite Push-Fit Connectors

When to use: Quick repairs or when you lack soldering tools.

• Pros: No soldering, no special tools, reusable fittings, done in minutes
• Cons: More expensive per fitting, some codes restrict use inside walls, potential for leaks if pipe is not perfectly round
• Difficulty: Easy
• Estimated cost: ~$8-15 per fitting

2. PEX Piping Conversion

When to use: Replacing long runs of galvanized pipe or repiping an entire section.

• Pros: Flexible tubing is easier to route, resistant to corrosion and scale, fewer fittings needed for long runs
• Cons: Cannot be used outdoors or exposed to UV, requires a PEX crimp or clamp tool, not suitable for hot water recirculation in all codes
• Difficulty: Medium
• Estimated cost: ~$50-150 in materials depending on run length

3. ProPress Crimped Copper

When to use: Professional-grade copper connections without open flame.

• Pros: No flame or solder, fast and reliable joints, approved in all codes
• Cons: Requires a ProPress tool (rental ~$200-300/day), fittings cost more than standard copper
• Difficulty: Hard (tool operation)
• Estimated cost: ~$300+ for tool rental plus $5-10 per fitting

Always verify contractor licensing and insurance in your state. Cost estimates are averages and may vary by location.