How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe -Chinese Version

This is the Chinese version of “How to replace Galvanized Pipe to Copper Pipe”, by Dr. Zhang and Mrs. Zhang

We also have the same topic of English version here

Chinese Version Part 1:

Chinese Version Part 2:

-        What the video is about

This Chinese-language version covers the same galvanized-to-copper pipe replacement process as the English tutorial, presented by Dr. Zhang and Mrs. Zhang. The techniques, tools, and safety precautions are identical — this version is produced for Chinese-speaking viewers who prefer instruction in Mandarin.

2.        Benefits/Drawbacks

What are the benefits of replacing? First, you need to know that there are three choices: steel, copper or PVC piping.

2.1. Galvanized steel

Galvanized steel water lines develop interior rust and mineral scale over decades of use. The visible symptom is often reduced water pressure at faucets, discolored water when taps are first opened, or temporary leak patches (tape wraps, compression clamps) applied by previous owners as stop-gap repairs. These patches indicate the pipe system is due for replacement.

2.2. PVC

PVC (Polyvinyl chloride) never rusts. Not this ABS type. 66% US market water supply and 75% sewer. Easy to install, use this hacksaw, solvent etc. California has restrictions. It has health risks. I have already got rid of all my food plastic containers. I am concerned the plastics might leach chemicals. I would use it only for drain and waste.

2.3. Copper

Copper. Copper is durable, bacteria-resistant, costs less and is more easily installed than steel. It requires fewer fasteners than galvanized pipes. However copper rust is poisonous. The good thing is, the poison kills the bacteria, I don’t know about people. So many people have replaced galvanized steel with copper in recent years, I guess we’ll be finding out soon!

3. If you choose copper, this is what you need

3.1. Pipe

Seal every open copper pipe end with tape or a cap during installation. Construction dust, insulation fibers, and debris in crawl spaces will enter uncovered pipes and lodge in faucet aerator screens once the water supply is turned back on.

3.2. flexible tubes

3.3. Couplings

Purchase an assortment of copper fittings — straight couplings, elbows, tees, and reducers in the diameters you expect to need. Having spare fittings on hand avoids interrupting the project for hardware store runs while the water is off. Return unused fittings when the job is complete.

3.4. Cutting tool

3.5. Lead free Solder

3.6. Lead free flux

3.7. Straps, screws

3.8. torch

3.9. pipe wrench

4.        Safety first

Safety first. Wear protective goggles throughout the pipe replacement process. Cutting old galvanized steel produces sharp metal fragments, and soldering copper generates intense heat and flux splatter. Have a fire extinguisher accessible when using the torch near wood framing.

5.        Cut galvanized Pipe

5.1. strategic

Cut strategic places, minimize number of cuts.

5.2. Plugs and Caps

Use plugs and caps to temporarily block the water supply to different parts of the house rather than completely cutting the water supply. This is to reduce the stress on your family.

See diagram.

6.        Cut Copper

6.1. Mark it

6.2. Double check

7.        Solder

7.1. Safety

7.2. Practice first

7.3. sand it

7.4. Flux

7.5. Heat

7.6. Apply lead

7.7. How to re-do it

8.        Re-connect

8.1. Single bathroom

A single-room re-pipe project (one bathroom or kitchen) can typically be completed and reconnected within the same day, minimizing the time the household is without running water.

8.1.1. Dielectric coupling

If you are doing a long term galvanized-copper connection, then use dielectric coupling.

8.2. Bypass

If you want to replace the complete house, you need to first make sure you completely understand the way the plumbing is laid out and which parts of the house will have to be without water at the same time. If two bathrooms are connected, as in this diagram here, it is best to keep both shut down until you are completely finished with both. This is because with water trapped inside the copper pipe, it takes long time to heat the copper pipe and is difficult to solder securely. Still, you need to have one to use, so if you do not have an additional bathroom, this may be a difficulty you will face.

8.3. Last Connection

You need to drain the water before any soldering.

8.3.1. Joint need to be Higher without water trapped inside

8.3.2. vertical

Choose a vertical pipe instead of horizontal pipe at the new joint.

Alternative Methods

If soldering copper pipe is not your preferred approach, consider these alternatives.

1. SharkBite Push-Fit Connectors

When to use: Quick repairs or when you lack soldering tools.

• Pros: No soldering, no special tools, reusable fittings, done in minutes
• Cons: More expensive per fitting, some codes restrict use inside walls, potential for leaks if pipe is not perfectly round
• Difficulty: Easy
• Estimated cost: ~$8-15 per fitting

2. PEX Piping Conversion

When to use: Replacing long runs of galvanized pipe or repiping an entire section.

• Pros: Flexible tubing is easier to route, resistant to corrosion and scale, fewer fittings needed for long runs
• Cons: Cannot be used outdoors or exposed to UV, requires a PEX crimp or clamp tool, not suitable for hot water recirculation in all codes
• Difficulty: Medium
• Estimated cost: ~$50-150 in materials depending on run length

3. ProPress Crimped Copper

When to use: Professional-grade copper connections without open flame.

• Pros: No flame or solder, fast and reliable joints, approved in all codes
• Cons: Requires a ProPress tool (rental ~$200-300/day), fittings cost more than standard copper
• Difficulty: Hard (tool operation)
• Estimated cost: ~$300+ for tool rental plus $5-10 per fitting

Always verify contractor licensing and insurance in your state. Cost estimates are averages and may vary by location.