Plumbing

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Repair Guide for Every Faucet Type

By Editorial Team Published

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet: Repair Guide for Every Faucet Type

A dripping faucet wastes far more water than most people realize — a faucet that drips once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons per year. Beyond the water waste, that constant drip can stain sinks, corrode fixtures, and drive you quietly insane. The repair is almost always a worn internal part that costs a few dollars and takes 30 minutes to replace.

The fix depends on your faucet type. This guide covers all four common residential faucet types with step-by-step repair instructions for each.

Always shut off the water supply before disassembling any faucet. Keep a towel over the drain to prevent small parts from falling in.


Quick Overview

DetailInfo
DifficultyBeginner to Intermediate
Time20–45 minutes
Cost$5–$30
Tools neededAdjustable wrench, screwdrivers (flat and Phillips), Allen wrench set, pliers, replacement parts

Identify Your Faucet Type

Before you start, figure out which type of faucet you have. This determines the repair procedure.

Faucet TypeHow to IdentifyCommon Brands
CompressionTwo separate handles. Handles screw down to close (you feel increasing resistance).Older faucets, budget models
BallSingle handle that moves in all directions (up/down, left/right). A metal ball inside controls flow and temperature.Delta, Peerless
CartridgeSingle or double handle. Handle moves smoothly without increasing resistance. A cylindrical cartridge inside controls flow.Moen, Price Pfister
Ceramic discSingle handle with a wide cylindrical body. Moves up/down (volume) and left/right (temperature) through a quarter turn.American Standard, newer Delta

Repair 1: Compression Faucet

Compression faucets are the oldest and simplest design. The leak is almost always a worn rubber seat washer.

Steps

  1. Shut off water supply valves under the sink.
  2. Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap on top of the handle, remove the screw underneath, and pull the handle off.
  3. Remove the packing nut using an adjustable wrench (counterclockwise).
  4. Pull out the stem. It lifts or unscrews out of the valve body.
  5. Replace the seat washer. At the bottom of the stem, a rubber washer is held in place by a brass screw. Remove the screw, pull the old washer off, and install an exact-size replacement. Take the old washer to the hardware store to match it.
  6. Inspect the O-ring on the stem. If the faucet leaks around the handle (rather than from the spout), the O-ring is the culprit. Roll the old one off, coat the new one in plumber’s grease, and roll it on.
  7. Reassemble in reverse order.
  8. Turn water on and test.

Repair 2: Ball Faucet

Ball faucets have many small parts, so the easiest approach is to buy a complete ball faucet repair kit (about $20) rather than trying to identify the individual worn part.

Steps

  1. Shut off water supply.
  2. Remove the handle. Loosen the set screw with an Allen wrench, then pull the handle off.
  3. Remove the cap and collar using the special wrench included in the repair kit (or adjustable pliers wrapped in tape to prevent scratching).
  4. Remove the cam, cam washer, and ball. Lift them out and set aside.
  5. Remove the inlet seals and springs. Inside the valve body, you will see two small rubber seats with springs behind them. Use needle-nose pliers or a screwdriver to pry them out.
  6. Install new springs and seats from the repair kit. Push them into position with a pencil tip.
  7. Reassemble with the new cam washer, cam, and ball from the kit. The ball has a small tab that aligns with a slot in the valve body.
  8. Hand-tighten the cap, then adjust with the wrench until the handle operates smoothly without leaking.
  9. Turn water on and test.

Repair 3: Cartridge Faucet

Cartridge faucets are the most common type in modern homes. The fix is straightforward — replace the cartridge.

Steps

  1. Shut off water supply.
  2. Remove the handle. Pry off the decorative cap, remove the screw, and pull the handle off.
  3. Remove the retaining clip. Some cartridge faucets have a small brass or plastic U-shaped clip that holds the cartridge in place. Pull it out with pliers.
  4. Pull the cartridge straight out. Use pliers if it is stuck. Moen sells a cartridge puller tool that helps with stubborn cartridges.
  5. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store and buy an exact match. Cartridges are brand-specific and not interchangeable.
  6. Install the new cartridge. Align it the same way the old one was oriented (this matters — if hot and cold are reversed after reassembly, the cartridge is in backward; pull it out and rotate it 180 degrees).
  7. Replace the retaining clip, handle, and cap.
  8. Turn water on and test.

Repair 4: Ceramic Disc Faucet

Ceramic disc faucets are the most durable and rarely leak. When they do, the cause is usually worn neoprene seals or a cracked disc.

Steps

  1. Shut off water supply.
  2. Remove the handle (set screw, usually on the side or back).
  3. Remove the escutcheon cap (the decorative dome under the handle).
  4. Unscrew the disc cylinder mounting screws and lift the cylinder out.
  5. Inspect the neoprene seals on the underside of the cylinder. If they are worn, pry them out and install replacements.
  6. Inspect the disc surfaces. If the ceramic discs are cracked or pitted, replace the entire cylinder. Clean any mineral deposits from the disc surfaces with white vinegar.
  7. Reassemble.
  8. Turn water on slowly. This is important for ceramic disc faucets — turning the water on full blast can crack the ceramic discs. Open the supply valve gradually and let the air purge from the lines before turning the faucet handle to full.

When the Faucet Leaks from the Base

If water pools around the base of the faucet rather than dripping from the spout:

  • Single-handle faucets: The O-ring around the faucet body is worn. Remove the handle and spout, replace the O-ring, and coat the new one with plumber’s grease.
  • Two-handle faucets: The supply connections underneath the sink may be loose. Tighten them gently with a wrench.

When to Replace Instead of Repair

Sometimes the faucet is not worth fixing:

  • The faucet is more than 15 years old and corroded internally
  • Replacement parts are no longer available for the brand/model
  • The faucet body itself is cracked
  • You want to upgrade to a modern single-handle or touchless model

A quality replacement faucet costs $100–$300 and will last 15–20 years. For cost planning, our home repair cost guide breaks down the typical range. If you are deciding between DIY and hiring out, see our DIY vs. professional guide.

For a video walkthrough of kitchen faucet drip repairs, see this faucet repair tutorial on GeniusAsian.


Frequently Asked Questions

How do I stop the faucet from dripping temporarily? Turn off the shutoff valves under the sink. This stops the water supply to the faucet and eliminates the drip until you can make the repair.

Where can I find the faucet model number? Check the base of the faucet (sometimes stamped on the back), the supply line tags, or the original packaging. Many manufacturers also have an online “identify your faucet” tool on their websites.

Should I replace both sides of a two-handle faucet? If one side is worn, the other is likely close behind. Replacing both seat washers or cartridges at the same time saves you from doing the job twice.


This article is for informational purposes only. Always verify local building codes and consult a licensed professional if you are unsure about any repair.