Home Inspection Checklist: What to Check Before Buying
This checklist supplements — but does not replace — a professional home inspection. Always hire a licensed home inspector before finalizing a home purchase.
Data Notice: Repair cost estimates referenced in this checklist are projected 2026 national averages. Regional variation of 40% to 65% is common. See the home repair cost guide for full pricing data.
Home Inspection Checklist: What to Check Before Buying
A professional home inspection costs ~$300 to ~$500 and takes 2 to 4 hours. That investment protects against five- and six-figure surprises that no amount of staging, fresh paint, or curb appeal can conceal. Inspectors miss things. Sellers conceal things. And some problems only become visible when you know exactly where to look.
This checklist covers every major system and component a buyer should verify — organized by category, prioritized by financial risk, and cross-referenced with repair costs so you can evaluate whether a deficiency is a deal-breaker, a negotiation point, or something you can live with.
Use this checklist during your walkthrough, during the professional inspection, and during the reinspection (if the seller agrees to repairs). Print it, bring it on-site, and check off each item as you go.
Key Takeaways
- The five highest-cost risks are foundation, roof, HVAC, sewer line, and electrical panel — each can cost ~$5,000 to ~$25,000 to repair or replace.
- A professional inspection covers the major systems but typically does not include sewer scope, radon testing, mold testing, or pest inspection — add these separately for older homes.
- Cosmetic issues are negotiation tools, not deal-breakers. Peeling paint, worn carpet, and dated fixtures are cheap to fix. Structural, water intrusion, and electrical issues are not.
- The inspection contingency in your purchase agreement is your exit ramp. Never waive it — even in a competitive market, the risk is too high.
- Every deficiency has a number. Attach a repair cost to each finding so you can negotiate with data instead of emotion.
Section 1: Exterior and Site
Foundation and Grading
- Walk the full perimeter — look for visible cracks in the foundation wall
- Hairline vertical cracks in poured concrete are normal; horizontal cracks, stair-step cracks in block, or cracks wider than 1/4 inch are structural concerns
- Check that grade slopes away from the foundation on all sides (6 inches of drop over the first 10 feet)
- Look for evidence of previous repair: patched cracks, steel braces, or helical pier caps visible at the foundation line
- Cost if deficient: Foundation repair averages ~$5,200 nationally; structural lifting can reach ~$23,000. See most expensive repairs by city
Roof
- Note the roof material and estimated age — ask the seller or listing agent directly
- Look for curling, cracking, or missing shingles from ground level (binoculars help)
- Check gutters for granule accumulation — a sign the shingles are deteriorating
- Look for sagging ridge lines or visible dips in the roof plane — both indicate structural issues
- Check flashing around chimneys, vents, and skylights for gaps or rust
- Cost if deficient: Roof replacement averages ~$9,200 nationally (1,500 sq ft asphalt shingle roof)
Siding and Exterior Walls
- Look for cracks, rot, holes, or missing sections in siding
- Check for gaps where siding meets trim, windows, and doors
- Probe suspect areas with a screwdriver — soft wood indicates rot
- Wood siding: check for paint failure (bubbling, peeling, chalking)
- Cost if deficient: Siding repair ~$300 to ~$1,500 per section; full replacement ~$8,000 to ~$18,000
Windows and Doors
- Open and close every window and exterior door — they should operate smoothly
- Look for condensation between double-pane glass (indicates seal failure)
- Check for daylight around door and window frames (indicates settling or poor installation)
- Verify that all locks function
- Cost if deficient: Window replacement ~$300 to ~$800 per window installed; entry door ~$500 to ~$2,000
Drainage and Landscaping
- Verify downspouts extend at least 4 feet from the foundation
- Look for standing water, erosion channels, or staining near the foundation
- Check for large trees with root systems close to the foundation (within 15 feet)
- Note the condition of the driveway and walkways — cracks and heaving indicate drainage or frost issues
Section 2: Roof and Attic
- Enter the attic — look for daylight through the roof deck
- Check for water stains, mold, or active moisture on sheathing and rafters
- Verify insulation depth — 10 to 14 inches of fiberglass or equivalent R-38 to R-60 is current standard
- Look for proper ventilation: soffit vents, ridge vents, or gable vents (inadequate ventilation shortens roof life and promotes mold)
- Check for evidence of animal intrusion (droppings, nesting material, chewed wiring)
- Note any previous repairs: sistered rafters, patched sheathing, replaced sections
- Cost if deficient: Attic insulation upgrade ~$1,500 to ~$3,500; ventilation improvement ~$500 to ~$1,500. See energy audit DIY guide
Section 3: Plumbing
- Turn on every faucet — check water pressure and drainage speed at each
- Flush every toilet — verify fill, flush power, and that running stops within 60 seconds
- Check under every sink for leaks, corrosion, or water stains
- Note the water heater age (label on the unit) — tank heaters over 10 years are approaching end of life
- Identify pipe material: copper (good), PEX (good), galvanized steel (potential problem — corrodes internally), polybutylene (serious liability — prone to sudden failure)
- Ask whether the sewer line has been scoped — if not, add a sewer scope inspection (~$150 to ~$400)
- Check for water stains on basement walls or floor — indicates current or past intrusion
- Cost if deficient: Water heater replacement ~$1,200 to ~$3,000; sewer line replacement ~$3,300; replumbing (galvanized to copper/PEX) ~$4,000 to ~$15,000. See the home plumbing guide
Section 4: Electrical
- Check the main electrical panel — note amperage (100 amp minimum for modern use; 200 amp preferred)
- Look for double-tapped breakers (two wires on one breaker) — a code violation
- Identify wiring type: Romex/NM (standard), aluminum (fire risk if improperly connected), knob-and-tube (insurance and lending issues)
- Test GFCI outlets in kitchens, bathrooms, garage, basement, and exterior — press the test button; it should trip immediately
- Check for ungrounded outlets with a plug-in tester (costs ~$15 at any hardware store)
- Note the number and location of outlets per room — insufficient outlets suggest the electrical system has not been updated
- Cost if deficient: Panel upgrade (100 to 200 amp) ~$1,500 to ~$3,000; aluminum wiring remediation ~$3,000 to ~$10,000; full rewire ~$8,000 to ~$20,000. See the electrical safety guide
Section 5: HVAC
- Note the age of the furnace/air handler and air conditioning condenser (labels on equipment)
- Ask for maintenance records — annual professional servicing extends system life 3 to 5 years
- Run both heating and cooling during the inspection (even if the season does not match — turn on the AC in winter for 5 minutes)
- Listen for unusual sounds: banging, clicking, or grinding indicate failing components
- Check the ductwork (if accessible) for disconnections, crushed sections, or excessive dust
- Change the filter after moving in — the existing filter’s condition tells you about the seller’s maintenance habits
- Cost if deficient: HVAC replacement averages ~$12,800 for a full system nationally; furnace only ~$3,500 to ~$7,500; AC only ~$3,000 to ~$15,000
Section 6: Interior
Walls, Ceilings, and Floors
- Look for cracks in walls and ceilings — particularly diagonal cracks radiating from door and window corners (indicates settling)
- Check for water stains on ceilings — especially under bathrooms and near exterior walls
- Walk all floors — note squeaks, soft spots, and slopes (a marble test reveals floor levelness)
- Check for sagging ceilings in the basement or first floor (indicates joist issues)
Bathrooms
- Inspect caulk around tubs, showers, and sinks — deteriorated caulk allows water behind walls
- Check for tile looseness — push on tiles around the tub surround
- Verify the exhaust fan works — hold a tissue near it; it should pull the tissue toward the vent
- Look for mold on grout, caulk, and ceiling surfaces
- Cost if deficient: Mold remediation ~$1,200 to ~$4,500; bathroom renovation ~$12,000 average. See room-by-room cost guide
Kitchen
- Run the dishwasher — check for leaks underneath during the cycle
- Test the garbage disposal
- Check under the sink for leaks, moisture, or mold
- Open and close all cabinets — note soft spots in the bottom (indicates past water damage)
- Verify all burners and the oven work
Basement
- Look for water stains, efflorescence (white mineral deposits), or active moisture on walls and floor
- Check for sump pump presence and function — pour water into the pit and verify the pump activates
- Note musty odors — they indicate current or recurring moisture problems
- Ask about radon testing — if not done, add it (~$150 for a professional test)
- Cost if deficient: Basement waterproofing ~$2,000 to ~$15,000; radon mitigation ~$800 to ~$2,500
Section 7: Safety Systems
- Verify smoke detectors on every level and in every bedroom (code requirement)
- Verify carbon monoxide detectors near bedrooms and on every level with a fuel-burning appliance
- Test the garage auto-reverse — place a 2x4 flat on the ground under the door; it should reverse upon contact
- Check stair railings and handrails — they should be firmly anchored with no wobble
- Verify fire extinguisher presence (not always required, but recommended in kitchen and garage)
After the Inspection: What to Do with the Results
- Categorize every finding as safety issue, major system deficiency, minor repair, or cosmetic
- Attach a cost to each finding using the home repair cost estimator — this converts an emotional negotiation into a data-driven one
- Negotiate on the high-cost items — ask for a price reduction, a repair credit at closing, or seller-completed repairs with reinspection
- Walk away if the deal math does not work — your inspection contingency protects you. A home with ~$30,000 in deferred maintenance at the national average must be priced ~$30,000 below comparable homes in good condition to be a fair deal
- Schedule specialty inspections for anything the general inspector flagged: sewer scope, radon, mold, structural engineer evaluation, pest inspection
Related Articles
- Home Repair Cost Guide 2026
- Home Repair Cost Estimator
- Home Repair Cost Guide by Room
- Most Expensive Home Repairs by City: 2026 Data
- Home Maintenance Annual Checklist
- How to Find a Reliable Handyman
HandymanFix.com provides this checklist for informational purposes. We are not licensed home inspectors, real estate agents, or attorneys. Always hire a licensed inspector and consult qualified professionals before making a home purchase decision.